Friday, 30 April 2010

Profile - Shannon Bianco


Welcome to the second staff profile from UCR - now it is the turn of Shannon.

What is your role at UCR?
I am a tea and flapjack operative.

How did you get into climbing?
I got the job through a friend - it was a spur of the moment idea and here we are 7 years later and still loving being around the climbing scene.

What is your most memorable climbing experience?
I don't really have one - i just enjoy climbing generally and it is great fun.

What is your favourite meal?
I love roast dinner with lots and lots and lots of gravy, swiftly followed by lemon meringue pie.

Who are you climbing heroes?
They are the local Bristol boys namely, Ben West, Matt Cox and Adam Muholland

What are your climbing ambitions?
Just to keep having fun, be able to climb and have a giggle at the same time.

What is your theme tune?
'Eye of the Tiger' by Survivor

Many thanks Shannon and I wonder who she has nominated as the next victim of the dreaded UCR Blog interview?

Tuesday, 27 April 2010

New Routes

Prajak has been busy. Here he is catching his breath



He has put up 35 new routes ranging from grade 3s for the birthday parties through to 6c+! The most numerous are from 5a to 6a+ - we trust you enjoy them. Many thanks Prajak.

Wednesday, 21 April 2010

Profile - Henry Castle



What is your role at UCR?

I am a senior instructor and I am the glue that binds the centre together!

How did you get into climbing?

I was involved in an outdoor climbing course at college 8 years ago and climbing was part of the course. From my youth there has always been an interest in the outdoors as my dad would take me on big walks.

What is your most memorable climb?

Completing the Old Man of Hoy is by far the most memorable experience. I think it was the fact that it was a massive adventure and so far from home that made it so special.

What is your favourite meal?

It has to be Sunday roast dinner with all the trimmings.

Who is your climbing hero and why?

It has to be Joe Brown and Pat Littlejohn. Not only are they both awesome in terms of new climbs but they took climbing to a new level.

Do you have any climbing ambitions?

Yes - I want to keep climbing until I fall off the perch!

What is your theme tune?

My tune would be Neil Diamond's 'Iam ... I said' - it reminds me of car journeys with my familygoing on holiday.

Tuesday, 20 April 2010

Climbing for the Over 40s

Check out the article in 8a.nu concerning the over 40s and maintaining a fresh perspective on one's climbing despite the ravages of time, work, family and responsibility.

It isn't all over past 40 or so I am told!

Monday, 19 April 2010

Lakeland 100

What is the Lakeland 100 & Lakeland 50?

The Lakeland 100 (UTLD) takes place on the weekend of July 23rd - 25th and is the most spectacular long distance trail race which has ever taken place within the UK.


The circular route encompasses the whole of the lakeland fells, includes in the region of 6300m of ascent and consists entirely of public bridleways and footpaths. The lakeland route starts in Coniston in Cumbria and heads South before completing a clockwise loop which takes in the Dunnerdale fells, Eskdale, Wasdale and Buttermere before arriving in Keswick. From here, the route heads to Matterdale and continues over to Haweswater before returning via Kentmere, Ambleside and Elterwater to the finish at Coniston. In addition to the Lakeland 100, the Lakeland 50 event also takes place with 3100m of ascent, starting from Dalemain Estate north of Pooley Bridge and finishing at Coniston.


If the thought of it scares you, whilst it is still a tough event with a 24-hour cut-off and 2,900 metres of climbing over the 50-mile route, but it's well within the capabilities of normal runners and fit walkers.

Do the maths and you'll realise that you only have to average 2mph to beat the cut-off for the 50
Do the maths and you'll realise that you only have to average 2mph to beat the cut-off for the 50, so while it's tough, it's far from impossible and would make an ideal first ultra run or just a very challenging walk in beautiful surroundings. Watch this space as we may have some places in the 50-mile event to give away.

One big plus of tackling an event like this is that there's support all round the route with manned checkpoints complete with hot food, drink and electronic timing to track competitors' progress. The route itself starts and finishes in Coniston and is a circular affair using footpaths, trails and open fellside.

You can enter the event either a solo competitor, as a pair or as part of a team of three. More details and online entry at http://www.lakeland100.com/.

Volcanic Ash And The Outdoors

The news and weather forecasts are full of volcanic ash this weekend, with the plume of particles from the Icelandic volcanic eruption having grounded planes in the UK, but beside the difficulty in reaching foreign hills, are there any implications for walkers and climbers?
The good news is that for most outdoors people, the consensus seems to be that any impact should be minimal, even with the very fine particles reaching ground level, first in Scotland and then moving south.

The Health Protection Agency has said that the ash shouldn't pose any serious health risk, but could cause irritation particularly to those with respiratory conditions like asthma, emphysema and chronic bronchitis and advises those at risk to carry inhalers and medication with them and those who notice symptoms should either return home or limit their activities.

The HPA said: "It is important to stress that the concentration of particles which may reach ground level is likely to be low and should not cause serious harm. If people are outside this evening and notice symptoms such as itchy or irritated eyes, runny nose, sore throat or dry cough, or if they notice a dusty haze in the air or can smell sulphur, rotten eggs, or a strong acidic smell, they may wish to limit their activities outdoors or return indoors.

"Those with existing respiratory conditions such as chronic bronchitis, emphysema and asthma may notice these effects more than others and should ensure they have any inhalers or other medications with them.

"Any such health effects are likely to be short term. The Health Protection Agency, Health Protection Scotland and the Met Office will continue to monitor the situation and issue any further advice or updates as necessary as the weather changes."
More positively, the ash particles are predicted to create 'spectacular sunsets' across Britain and judging by last night's Peak District efforts, it's worth staying out on the hill just to gawp at the vibrant colours as the sun's rays reflect off the particles of ash and sulphur. Volcanic wild camp anyone?

Taken from http://www.outdoorsmagic.com

Emmett and MacLeod on the BBC



Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett are set to be filmed for a major TV show this summer. The programme, made for BBC Scotland, will feature the two climbers new routing on the Scottish Islands. The main event will be an attempt on a new route up the hugely overhanging crag of Sron Ulladale on Harris.

"It has been developed by Triple Echo Productions for BBC Scotland and will consist of a 6 hour broadcast, scheduled for Saturday 28th August." said Richard Else, of Triple Echo Productions.
Despite the media hype and over use of catch phrases such as 'world record' and 'extreme climbing', the programme looks set to be a great hit, appealing to both climbers and the non climbing public.

In the build up to the Sron Ulladale climb, Emmett and MacLeod will be new routing on the islands:

"A few months before the live broadcast, Tim and Dave will be attempting another world record - to put up 5 hard new climbs on 5 different islands in 5 days. With weather, tides and sea sickness to contend with, even the logistics of this attempt are mind boggling. Add to that the hardest routes the pair can find on each island and with the clock relentlessly ticking, it's likely to be a nerve-racking week for both climbers and film crew." commented Richard Else, deftly slipping the phrase 'world record' in the first sentence.



Dave MacLeod has already been out on Harris "peering at unclimbed cliffs for hours from the boat" in preparation for his and Emmett's five day new route marathon, but Richard Else was keen to promote other aspects of this television programme, that will cover culture as well as climbing:

"There's more to this broadcast, however, than these dramatic ascents. No one who visits the Outer Hebrides can fail to be impressed by their cultural, linguistic and historical importance. Add to that some of the most stunning scenery in Europe and a wealth of outstanding natural history, and it is easy to appreciate why this broadcast will celebrate these elements as well. Interspersed with the climbing action, will be a number of features highlighting the special character of the Hebrides. And in further recognition of the quality of the landscape, Britain's best known walker, Cameron McNeish will be creating a new long distance route through these islands."

Catch this on BBC iPlayer


Thursday, 8 April 2010

Ben West Points West!

Our very own Ben West helps Alex Lovell overcome her worries and concerns to top out at the Bristol Climbing Centre.

Check out the video at:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/bristol/hi/things_to_do/newsid_8597000/8597027.stm

Doesn't the centre look good?

Wednesday, 7 April 2010

New Grit Video

A new video is due to hit the stores ' Grit Flick'.


Including: Jordan Buys's second ascent of the coveted Widdop Wall, Ryan Pascal makes the first ascent of ‘Gerty Berwick’, the first ascent of ‘French Duke’, Lucy Creamer tries her luck on ‘Slab and Crack’, Ben Bransby and James McHaffie tackle National Acrobat at Ramshaw Rocks and much more!

Its scary but highly motivational - enjoy!

Bristol tops list of bike-friendly cities

Bristol is the UK's most bike-friendly big city, while London is one of the least hospitable to cyclists, according to a survey.


The study by Cycling Plus magazine took the country's 20 biggest cities and towns by population – thus excluding traditional bike centres such as Cambridge and York – and ranked them using a series of factors including cycle commuter numbers, levels of bike theft, the number of traffic-free bike lanes, casualties, pollution and even rainfall.
Bristol edged out Nottingham and Leicester, while London was rated 17th, above only Glasgow, Birmingham and bottom-placed Bradford.

The accolade for Bristol comes two years after it was named the country's first "cycling city" by the Department for Transport, giving it access to around £20m in extra funding for bike-related schemes. The city is also the birthplace of Sustrans, the green cycle route charity which began 30 years ago when volunteers converted an old rail line between Bristol and Bath into a dedicated bike route.

Bristol was "leading the way after significant government investment", said the editor of Cycling Plus, Rob Spedding. He added: "Local cyclists still feel that progress isn't being made quickly enough, but the UK holds up Bristol as a shining example when it comes to the number of riders, bike shops, traffic free routes and low pollution levels."

Jeff Fry, a member of the Bristol South Cycling Club for half a century and still a keen rider aged 70 despite a recent hip operation, said he was "a little surprised" at his home city's new accolade.
"There's some good parts to cycling here, but I don't see how we're much better than most places. Cars do tend to cut you up. I don't like to complain too much about motorists as I'm one myself, but it can be dangerous."

The investment had brought new infrastructure such as a dedicated bike path attached to Bristol's outer ringroad, but progress overall remained "patchy", he said.
"On a main road near where I live they've just put up some shiny new signs indicating a bike lane, but I can't see any signs of the lane yet," he said. "I don't know if it's ever going to happen."
On one cycling internet forum some were more blunt. "Bristol? They must not have stayed overnight or they wouldn't have had a bike come morning," one reader noted.

While the government and local councils have invested millions in cycling infrastructure in recent years, bike campaign groups complain that the results tend to be mixed and that the UK remains decades behind countries such as the Netherlands and Denmark.
As another cycling forum commenter argued: "Deciding which UK city is best for cycling is a bit like deciding which one of Jedward is the more talented."

Taken from http://www.guardian.co.uk

Friday, 2 April 2010

BMC vacancy

Just picked this up from the BMC Newsletter - 'Access & Conservation – you tell us it’s the BMC’s most important area of work, and amongst you might be the next BMC Access & Conservation Officer. If you’re interested in the vacancy visit the BMC website.'

We thought it might be of interest - what are your thoughts?